Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Lucy and Iranian Youth

One of our days in Addis was spent at the National Museum. It’s not big and fancy like the Met or something. But is houses the bones of Lucy, thought to be the oldest, nearly complete set of ‘nearly’ human bones.

I’m not terribly articulate at what I think of carbon dating and the age of things like Lucy found in archeological digs. But oddly enough I was reading a book on the trip that used an example of someone presenting an ancient sculpture to a museum for sale. Every curator that saw it knew in an instant that it wasn’t right. But 14 months of testing proved it to be the correct age of such sculptures. It had a patina on it that could only come with the aging of thousands of years, or so they thought.

It turned out that all the curators gut reactions were right. And some kind of potato mold could create the same patina in a relatively short time. I don’t understand the science. But it makes me confident that what other expert tests are sure of, could be very wrong.

On the shuttle to the Lalibela Airport I was seated next to a young business man from Iran. He was in a chatty mood and so I let him lead a conversation. He asked if I believed in evolution. I gave a minimal opinion which only fueled his about how the youth of his country are starting to side in favor of evolution and science which in turn in causing quite a stir in the religious circles there.

I tried my level best to help him see that even scientists can be wrong, and even they need ‘faith’ to close the gaps in their work. But he was sticking to his beliefs in the area of evolution.
Lucy is a little creepy, and so were some of her friends in the basement of the National Museum.

More Shots of Rock Hewn Churches - Lalibela

Here is the one that looks like a cross from the top, looking at it from the bottom.
I have a thing for doors and windows.


Local dwellings - though not all people live in these. There are cement block structures as well.
The window through this doorway is shaped like the top of the towers build in the more northern town of Axum.
Jane with our guide standing by one of the rock hewn pools. Some were for baptism, others like this one are for fertility. (Little sycretism going on.)


Monday, April 19, 2010

Lalibela

A couple days after arriving in Addis we flew to Lalibela, famous for its monolith, rock-hewn churches, eleven of them. The day went between slightly overcast and full sunshine. It started out a pleasant temp – but grew hot as the day wore on. The churches are fairly close together but there are some steep hikes at an altitude of 8500 feet. Needless to say, we were out of breath a few times.Jane, my traveling companion and long-time friend quickly observed the constant stream of tourists, thus Western income contrasted with the very poor lifestyles of those who live in the village. It would appear that all this influx of money has not filtered down to affect the standard of living.This is a town steeped in history and lore. The churches are stunningly incredible. It’s hard to imagine carving down over 55 feet into solid rock to make a building. Let alone doing it by hand. These churches are about 900 years old. There are all kinds of caves and tunnels, deep foot paths and strange stone cut pools.
After a while you realize that even though the churches are very much in use and ceremonies happen often, there isn’t real life in this religion. And perhaps that is the reason for the extraordinary poverty in a village with such a large foreign capital income.

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Besides Beautiful People

One of the wonderful things about Ethiopia is the beautiful handiwork of the people of this land. One of our first stops was at a leprosy hospital that has a shop for goods made there. This woman was sitting outside stitching one of those famous Ethiopian designs.

Saturday, April 17, 2010

My Travel Mate, Jane

Here's Jane bargaining (in English) for that Ethiopian dress she has on. Needless to say, she didn't get it.

A Land Full of Beautiful People

As you may remember, I am a sort of connoisseur of faces. I love to drink in the faces of the places I visit. And I probably love those of East Africa the best. What can I say, I’m biased.

Ethiopia is full of beauties. I can’t even explain how absolutely gorgeous nearly everyone is. Ever waitress or service person could be a model. I don’t think I would ever tire of comparing high cheek bones, straight noses and flowing hair. Jane Kilonzo went with me. Jane is Kenyan, Kamba to be exact. And Jane has a bit of an unusually light complexion for a Kenyan. Back in the 90’s when Jane and I would go to aerobics class together we had a friend who was Indian descent. We compared their skin tones finding them essentially the same.

Since Ethiopians are often considered to be a little lighter than Kenyans, I realized on the plane that Jane might get mistaken for an Ethiopian. I told her as much. Maybe even ‘warned’ her that she better learn a little Amharic fast. She assured me that her features were completely Kenyan and that wouldn’t happen.

Ha. People were still speaking to her in Amharic in the Ladies Room after we landed back in Nairobi, knowing she had gotten off the same flight. Jane fit right in with the beauties of Ethiopia. If we dressed her up in their traditional clothes, she’d have to learn the language!

As for me, I would be happy to say amäsägnalähu to each lovely face I saw.

Friday, April 16, 2010

Feeling a little Green

And not in the enironmentally friendly way. Today was a bit of a wash. I haven't been feeling all that well and I'm just going to head to bed, praying I don't have some odd African illness. (Addis is too high for malaria, so it can't be that.)

Here is my very first impression - this was taken when we stepped out of the airport. I promise more info this weekend. Note the Orthodox church smack in the middle. (dang light pole.)